Boscarelli By Ian D’Agata 2012 Boscarelli Prugnolo Rosso di Montepulciano (sangiovese): Bright red. Knockout perfumed aromas of red berries, rose, violet and vanilla; smells like an alcoholic cream soda. Then bright and fresh on the palate, with juicy raspberry and sour red cherry flavors lifted by flowers and sweet spices. Finishes long and juicy, with lively acidity delivering clarity and cut. A knockout wine from Boscarelli: I consider this to be one of Italy’s best red wine buys almost every year. 90 2011 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($39) (mainly sangiovese, with small percentages of canaiolo nero and mammolo): Bright red. Captivating aromas of sour red cherry, raspberry, violet and vanilla. Suave and juicy in the mouth, with bright flavors of red berries and cherry lifted by minerals and sweet spices. Very much like the entry-level Prugnolo but with greater tactile presence and depth. The finish is long and pure. A remarkably easy-drinking Nobile with superb balance. 91 2010 Boscarelli Etichetta Bianca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva (90% sangiovese, the rest canaiolo nero and colorino): Dark ruby-tinged red. Spice and herb notes complicate rich ripe red cherry and mineral aromas. Then big and dense, with lively acidity lifting the red berry and licorice flavors. Finishes clean and long, with lingering tar and herb notes most likely brought by the colorino. The first-ever vintage of this new wine from Boscarelli; it’s deeper, denser and more closed than the regular Vino Nobile. Compared to the other Vino Nobile Riserva that has long been made by Boscarelli, called Etichetta Nera (black label), the Etichetta Bianca spends less time in oak, is released a year earlier, and is not made with any international grapes. 91(+?) 2010 Boscarelli Il Nocio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($113) (100% sangiovese): Deep red. Intense aromas of red cherry, sour redcurrant, rose, violet and sweet spices. Dense, juicy and suave, with fresh, pure red cherry and sweet spice flavors. Finishes smooth, clean and very long, with lingering, vibrant red cherry, mineral and floral nuances. One of the best Nocio vintages in years, a real essence of sangiovese. Nocio is a single-vineyard Nobile that has long been the quality standard bearer in Montepulciano (it was previously called Nocio dei Boscarelli). 94 2009 Boscarelli Etichetta Nera Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva (85% sangiovese and 15% merlot and cabernet sauvignon): Dark ruby. Brooding aromas of dark cherry, cocoa and licorice. Smooth, dense and rich, with dark cherry, coffee and cocoa flavors joined on the lingering finish by hints of coffee and pepper. This is still quite youthful and needs time: don’t think of touching a bottle for at least another five years. Happily, here the international grapes, though clearly identifiable in the wine, don’t dominate the sangiovese as much as they do in many other Tuscan blends.

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